The tuna family’s trial by fire is an old one. In Kōchi, in Japan’s south, fishermen sear katsuo, the bonito cousin of tuna, for seconds over the flame of thick straw bundles; the technique, called tataki たたき, produces a slice smoky and scorched outside, entirely raw within. It is among the oldest proofs that fire and raw fish can live at peace in the same bite.

The Tuna Tempura Roll continues that peace at the counter. Tuna’s dense, meaty character has earned it the name of the sea’s steak; inside hot batter that character does not soften, it sharpens. Heat brings forward akami’s iron richness and deep umami, and the contrast of crisp shell against meaty fish makes this the most satisfying member of the tempura family.

For those who know this fish’s history, there is a measure of justice on the plate as well: the fish Edo once judged fit for cats now stands before the fire as the lead character.

We have other rolls for those seeking a light bite. This plate is for those seeking character.