Shrimp is an ingredient that loves fire, and there is chemistry to it. The natural sugars in shellfish caramelize under heat; the scent of grilled shrimp that takes you by the arm and turns you around is, quite literally, the smell of a reaction. Raw shrimp is graceful and quiet; warmed shrimp speaks up.

Hot Signature Ebi translates that chemistry into the language of our signature series. The plump-fleshed shrimp is taken inside a hot, crisp shell; the steam is sealed within, and the bite is still alive when it reaches the table. The first thing the tooth breaks is the crackle of the shell; right behind it comes the shrimp’s sweet vapor.

Ebi’s meaning in Japanese culture suits the cheer of this plate. Its kanji, 海老, write out the old man of the sea; the bent back and long whiskers are the signs of long life. This is why a shrimp always sits at the head of the New Year table, the osechi: live until your back bends, it says.

A wish for long life, carried inside a warm bite. Good wishes should travel this way.